Sailors Find Six Serendipities in Solomons
For many sailors, Solomons Island is a welcome respite on the western shore, providing good protection, a variety of marine services, and several amenities. While the Eastern Shore of Maryland offers many coves for tucking in, the opposite side of the Bay doesn’t offer much refuge for between the Patuxent and West Rivers. Hence, Solomons is a popular stop for cruising sailors when heading up or down the Bay.
That’s precisely what we had planned: just one overnight stay in Solomons on our way south to St. Mary’s City to begin a two-week sailing vacation along the Potomac. But a hurricane and a nor’easter changed our plans, and we ended up staying eight nights on a mooring ball at Safe Harbor Zahnisers. Definitely not the sailcation we had anticipated!
Initially, we were disappointed but resolved to stay hopeful despite ongoing forecasts of 25- to 28-knot winds, gusting 40 to 43. After several days of listening to incessant wind and rain, we relied on radar to anticipate rare breaks in the weather to get to shore. Although those breaks were only for a couple of hours here and there, we were able to walk or bicycle to several attractions within those time frames.
We were surprised to discover that Solomons, as familiar as it was, presented a few serendipities that made our stay truly enjoyable, despite the weather. If you are a frequent sailor to Solomons Island, see how many of these you’ve experienced. And if you haven’t been to Solomons lately, put this eclectic town on your destination list!
1. Calvert Marine Museum: We have visited this museum every time we’ve been to Solomons, and it has always been the highlight of our trip. From its waters edge, Drum Point Lighthouse beckons us to dinghy from our mooring ball and tie up at the museum’s dock. We enjoy the intimacy of this museum and its knowledgeable staff who take time to explain exhibits and encourage questions. The otters were especially entertaining on our recent visit, encouraging multiple returns over the many days we shared the wet weather with them.
2. Annmarie Sculpture Garden & Arts Center: How did we ever miss this treasure on previous journeys to Solomons?! Due to boredom during the early days of the deluge, we researched attractions beyond the familiar town and discovered that this sculpture garden was only a 12-minute bicycle ride away. Lucky for us, Zahnisers had loaner bikes, so we took advantage of a break in the weather to explore this delightful garden with its meandering paths and diverse art forms.
3. Easy walking to shops and dining: One of the joys of cruising the Chesapeake Bay is approaching seaside towns from the water and exploring them on foot. We have always anchored or moored in Back Creek, within view of the Calvert Marine Museum. Zahnisers has a dinghy dock, and from there it’s a 15-minute walk to the beginning of the town’s modest boardwalk along the Patuxent River. Another 15 minutes of walking will take you past a few boutique shops and restaurants, including Blue Shell Gifts and the popular Tiki Bar. We strolled to the end of the peninsula, stopping at the Chesapeake Biological Laboratory, which happened to be open and receiving guests.
4. A peaceful lunch: We stopped for lunch at the Pier Restaurant, with its amazing views of the Patuxent River and the Governor Thomas Johnson Bridge. We sat on the patio, ordered some seafood, and appreciated dramatic skies. On our stroll back, we peeked into the busy CD Café, a friend’s cozy favorite, and promised to return.
5. An exquisite dinner: A benefit of staying at Zahnisers is the proximity to La Vela, an exquisite Italian restaurant located on site. Early in our stay, when winds were forecasted to die down a few knots, we made reservations for dinner off the boat. Although we arrived a bit wet, it didn’t take us long to warm up and enjoy a leisurely dinner in a cozy atmosphere.
6. New friendships: Zahnisers has a welcoming boater’s lounge, where we sought refuge one drizzly afternoon. We were delighted to learn that a gathering was being planned for 4 p.m. We met seven sailors and one powerboater, mostly transients, and exchanged tales as boaters often do, especially when weather intervenes. We also learned about Sail Solomons, a sailing school and charter company, who are now based out of nearby Spring Cove Marina with new owners.
Eventually, the weather window cleared, and one by one, boaters began to depart. After eight evenings on a mooring ball, we set off for Cambridge, ironically having to motor the entire way due to no wind. We returned to Annapolis on Day 13 of our vacation, never seeing the new-to-us towns we had so excitedly anticipated.
Yet, I remain infinitely grateful that we spent eight nights in Solomons when we had only planned for one. One of the transients we met in the boater’s lounge was solo sailor Julie Roberts, on her Leopard 44 catamaran At Ease. Fast forward a few weeks to when Julie and I bumped into each other at the Annapolis Sailboat Show. An offer of rides, laundry, and dinner at our Annapolis home led to Julie inviting me to join her twice, in the Bahamas and the Caribbean, with another sailor, Cordelia. The three of us share a love of the water, sailing, and adventure. And I never would have met these wonderful women if not for a long wet stay in Solomons Island.
About the author: Captain Cheryl Duvall is president of the Chesapeake Area Professional Captains Association (CAPCA). You may see her at the helm of her Gozzard 44 Belle Bateau, or on Watermark’s Miss Anne in Annapolis Harbor. Email her at [email protected].
