The Best of the West and Rhode Rivers for Sailors
I regard the West and Rhode Rivers as unsung heroes of the Chesapeake Bay. Both are accessible for a quick overnight when heading up or down the Bay, providing convenient protection from all directions of wind. But some hurried sailors never venture farther back. For those who do, enchantments await because both rivers have something to offer any mood or budget.
West River
I have a soft spot in my heart for the West River. Sixteen years ago, when we bought our first cruising sailboat, we chose Pirate’s Cove as our marina. We lucked into a slip with a full pier and an easy approach through a mooring field rather than a narrow alleyway. I was used to sailing keelboats, so having plenty of maneuvering space endeared me to Pirate’s Cove. That, and two months later when we were married on our boat, with family witnessing from the docks.
After three years at Pirate’s Cove and a brief stint in Baltimore, we came back to the West River when we bought our Gozzard. This time, we took a slip toward the end of the river, at Hartge Yacht Harbor, where we remained for five years. We were still working full-time, reserving weekends for sailing. The proximity of the West River to points north, east, and south was opportune, especially for a quick weekend adventure. When originally choosing the West River, we had focused on favorable slip rates more than location. We quickly began to appreciate how many different anchorages we could reach within a few hours of sailing. That alone can make the West River appealing.
We also began to appreciate how treasured this river was for racers. Inevitably, as we returned home on Sundays, we’d see 30 or so sailboats heading towards us. Staying out of their way was challenging.
“The West River is a mostly protected waterway that offers fun and exciting racing,” says Frank Albert, commodore of Pirates Cove Race Club (PCRC), which hosts races for 40 boats every Wednesday night (or Sundays when days grow shorter), in two spinnaker classes and one non-spinnaker class.
“Altogether, PCRC holds 32 races a year over various courses ranging from two miles to over six miles, depending on wind strength. We encourage new racers to come out and enjoy the excitement.”
The West River is also ideal for cruisers. Just beyond R6, there is ample water and good holding for anchoring on the south side. The nearby West River Fuel Dock has reliable operating hours and helpful dockhands. Transient dockage may also be available at nearby marinas, including Hartge.
The small town of Galesville’s two waterfront restaurants offer short-term dockage for customers. Alternatively, dinghies can tie up at Galesville Wharf. From there, it’s a short walk east to the newly renovated Pirate’s Cove Restaurant, offering refined dining or more casual dining in indoor and outdoor bars, often with live music. A short walk west puts you at Stan & Joe’s Riverside, with casual dining including steamed crabs, weekend live music, and dog-friendly outdoor seating. In addition to 25 slips for customers, S&J’s has two floating docks for smaller vessels.
Rhode River
As much as I enjoy the West River, I have a stronger affection for the Rhode. According to our logs, we have anchored in this river more than 40 times. If we can only get away for one overnight, this is where we go. One night at anchor in the Rhode can feel like a long weekend escape.
There are two primary anchorages in the Rhode River. As you enter the Rhode from the West River, honor R2 on your right, then G3 on your left. It feels a bit narrow, but there is plenty of room even with oncoming traffic. Straight ahead, you’ll see R4 and R6 in quick succession, marking the entrance to shallow Cadle Creek.
The first Rhode anchorage is on the west, opposite the two reds, and is well-marked on the charts along with a couple of hazards. When we ducked into the Rhode for a quick overnight in the autumn of 2022, we had planned to anchor south of a wreck symbol we had previously avoided. As we approached, we were surprised to see the tops of two masts protruding out of the water near our intended destination. Apparently, a sunken sailboat had been recently reported. We dropped our Rocna further south and departed the next morning.
Upon further research, I learned that Maryland’s DNR’s hydro team removed this sunken vessel from N 38°52'37.0", W 076°31'14.8" shortly after we saw it. This serves as a good reminder to report abandoned vessels to Maryland’s Natural Resource Police.
More typically, we head farther up the Rhode River to its second anchorage, giving G7 a wide berth when turning to port. I am still awed by the sheer size of this haven and the lack of buildings along its shores. Other than YMCA Camp Letts on the north and a few modest homes tucked into foliage on the south, this anchorage is surrounded by trees and punctuated by several small islands. If you seek serenity and nature, it’s tough to find a better place to drop the hook.
The islands are rimmed by shallow waters, not to be ignored by prudent sailors. These shoals are well-marked on the charts, yet we’ve witnessed several boats (mostly speeding powerboats) grounding on the invisible island in the middle of the anchorage, ironically named High Island. It can be less than a foot deep there. Just go slowly, and watch your depths and charts.
Occasionally, on a busy summer weekend, jet skis and powerboats will speed past anchored vessels, though they usually hug the northern side near Camp Letts. We usually anchor in the southwest corner, in eight to nine feet of water, near the shallow waters between Big Island and Murray Wharf. We suspect those shallows discourage most powerboats. We have also anchored near Camp Letts, in Sellman Creek, which is very protected but only wide enough for one boat across.
After anchoring, we point our dinghy behind Big Island to the Rhode’s unexpected amenity: Smithsonian Environmental Research Center (SERC)! We visit SERC frequently, stretching our legs on six main hiking trails. There is a dinghy dock for access to the grounds, including the restrooms in the Reed Education Center. Check the SERC calendar for hours of operation, and take advantage of their special events.
It’s rare to find an anchorage so spacious and yet serene. If you are looking for a place to raft up with friends or rendezvous with other sailors, the Rhode is ideal. Just remember to respect the Rhode’s peaceful nature. It gets very quiet after dusk. And you don’t want to be “that” boat!
If you go:
- West River Fuel Dock, 410-867-1444
- Pirate’s Cove Marina Dockmaster, 301-928-6605
- Pirate’s Cove Restaurant and Dock Bar
- Stan & Joe’s Riverside
- Pirate’s Cove Race Club
- West River Sailing Club
- Hartges Yacht Harbor
- Smithsonian Environmental Research Center aka SERC
About the author: Captain Cheryl Duvall is a USCG Licensed Master Inland 100 GRT and president of the Chesapeake Area Professional Captains Association (CAPCA). You may also see her helming Watermark’s Miss Anne in Annapolis. Email her at [email protected].
