Trip 1 - Back on the ICW

Leg 12 - Cooper River Marina to Steamboat Creek. 

Ok, finally underway on our phase II journey of the ICW. Up around 7 for a quick breakfast and then final preparations in the cockpit etc. Headphones donned, we pulled out of the slip and then backed right into the day dock where the pump out apparatus is located. The guys from the marina helped empty the tanks and then we were on our way. It was a gentle departure in an incoming tide. There was little to no wind with temperatures in the high 40’s low 50’s on a cloudy gray day. We were taking our time as I was retrieving and stowing the fenders when I realized the bridge only opens on the ½ hour and not on demand. So, we went full throttle and made it just in time. Actually there was a barge coming north and we let him go first which gave us additional time to arrive before they had to close the bridge. Finally through the bridge, we quickly came upon the next challenge – Elliot’s Cut – a narrow area with rocks on the banks. It is recommended to radio your arrival in case there are boats coming from the opposite direction. We did that and met no one. So, we sat back and enjoyed the beauty of the Low Country of South Carolina. We saw many dolphins and Great Egrets, Brown Pelicans, and some Osprey. We were making great time as we were going with the current so I slowed the engine.  As we came upon the planned anchorage we decided it wasn’t a good place so we opted to one of the alternatives  – Steamboat Creek. Sue took us down to the bottom near the dinghy dock and we dropped the hook in 24 feet (high tide at the time). Travel time for the day was about 5:35 as we traveled 32.2 nautical miles. It was a great first day. Dinner is planned to be prosciutto and chicken tortellini along with a fresh salad. Early to bed as temperatures are to go into the low 40’s.

Tomorrow we get up early and head to the mooring field outside of Beaufort SC. Then the next day we will have a short ride to the marina and then enjoy the town for the afternoon and evening. We need to get to the bridge no later than 3PM as they stop opening for rush hour traffic. If we don’t get there by then we have to wait until 6 PM.

Leg 13 - Beaufort Mooring Field

We were up to a very cold morning at 6 to get our day started. I got the coffee percolating as well as fired up buddy – our propane indoor heater to get the temps into the mid 50’s. After breakfast Sue started making lunch (sandwiches and snacks) as I prepared the anchor retrieval process – pulling in the chain to gather the bridle and the anchor trip line. Finally, with the anchor retrieved and cleaned we headed out of Steamboat Creek. This was an exceptional stop and so much better than my original plan. Since we left before low tide there were many areas I was concerned about. We did manage to get through them all with the lowest water level of about 6’ so I relaxed a bit. I was much more comfortable yesterday when we left after low tide and all the places with shallow water warnings we hit in a rising tide mid tide or at high tide. But, even though we were lucky most of the time I decided not to chance it going through the Ashepoo Coosaw cut off. These are two cut offs with reported 4’ of water at MLLW. So we instead took a left turn and headed south out of Fenwick Cut (which had 12’ of water the entire way trough). While it was further to travel we could go faster and not stress over water levels. While heading up the Coosaw River the wind picked up a bit and I deployed the Genoa – for at least 2 hours. That was great as it helped us go a little faster. It gave us the opportunity to possibly make the 1 pm opening of the Lady’s Island bridge so we scurried as fast as we could and arrived just in time. Once past the bridge Sue took the wheel and drove to the mooring field where we were picking up the mooring ball. It took 2 tries as I was unable to snag the painter line on the first attempt. We tried another ball and snagged it first try and then I slipped my line through and tied up. Sue did a great job driving against 3 knots of current and 10 knots of wind. We cleaned up after the day’s travels and then relaxed. I had a celebratory beer warming in the sun drenched cockpit (someone said I was snoring) while Sue read down below. Dinner tonight will be grilled chicken (Sue) and hamburger (me) along with seasoned green beans and stroganoff noodles. Oh, and don’t forget Klondike bars for desert. I suspect early to bed as it was a long day. Also, while it is a bit warmer than yesterday, the temperatures are supposed to get into the 40’ again tonight.  Numbers for today are – Miles traveled 40.2 in 6 hours and 33 minutes.

Tomorrow we will sleep in a bit, have a nice warm breakfast of eggs and bacon and motor to the marina where we will pull into a slip and have lunch with an old colleague and then explore Beaufort.

Leg 14 - Beaufort Safe Harbor Marina

It was quite chilly when we awoke this morning so I opened the curtains to allow the sun to warm up the cabin. I then started the coffee and our buddy heater as I started breakfast of bacon and eggs. Afterwards the marina contacted me saying they were ready when we were so I quickly readied the cockpit and checked on the mooring. I released both lines and we were floating freely in the current away from the ball as I walked back to engage the engine and head to the marina. After a soft docking we tied up and settled up with the marina. Then we cleaned up and readied ourselves for Barb and Mike – friends of ours from back home, many years ago – who moved down to this area. We had a lovely lunch as we caught up from the many years apart and then afterwards they drove us to their beautiful golf neighborhood and fabulous home. Late afternoon the returned us to the center of Beaufort where we arranged for a buggy tour of the historic town of Beaufort. It was extremely interesting to see the old homes along with the many stories he had to tell. Finally we had dinner at a local tavern – which was absolutely delicious and then headed back to The Office. Now we need to rest up in our warm boat as we plan for our anchorage tomorrow in Bull Creek. It should be a shorter trip and we will be able to meander slowly across the Port Royal River. Numbers for today - .5 miles and 12 minutes.

Leg 15 - Bull Creek Anchorage

We took our time getting ready for departure enjoying the quiet town of Beaufort. Finally I topped off the center water tank and Josh from the marina emptied our holding tanks. Once complete we pulled away and slowly headed down the  Beaufort River. We passed Parris Island and then into the Port Royal Bay where I decided to raise the sails. The winds were from the SSE about 9-10 knots so we sailed up the river on a beam / broad reach until we arrived at Skull Creek / Hilton Head Island. I dropped the sails and we slowly meandered through grand homes to the port and lush marsh to starboard. The water was plenty deep, as long as you don’t stray from the line – which, if you are looking at all the sights is easy to do. We passed the marina we will be staying at tomorrow and headed to Bull Creek. I prepared the anchor as Sue steered us to the spot I marked on the chart. I adjusted the anchor trip line so that the float (bobby) would highlight the position of the anchor. I deployed the anchor and tossed bobby. The anchor felt like it caught so I paid out 120’ of chain. When I looked up, bobby was floating horizontally as opposed to vertically. Well, after going through the many scenarios as to the cause of bobby floating on its side we looked up and it had floated across the creek, almost into the marsh grasses, and that’s when we figured out it had come untied from the line. So, we raised the anchor and motored to within 10’ of the marsh risking running aground, to save a $30 float. Kind of silly but it was successful as Sue reached out with the boat hook and grabbed the float. I retied the float – this time correctly, and we anchored all over again. Other than that excitement, it was a relaxing motor / sail in sometimes sunny weather. Dinner tonight is grilled pork chops, brown rice and zucchini in Italian style tomato sauce. Cookies for desert. Temps should only do down to the low 50’s tonight so we are looking for a pleasant evening on the hook. Oh, the numbers, 25.8 miles and 4 hours 32 minutes.

Tomorrow we back track to the marina, Palmetto Bay Marina. 

Leg 16 - Palmetto Bay Marina Hilton Head

Even with strong currents and vast tide differentials it was a very calm night on the hook in Bull Creek. I was up as the sun peeked into the windows past the drawn curtains. I quietly (well, as quiet as I can be) moved to the saloon to open all the curtains to help warm up the area as I made the coffee. Of course I fired up Buddy, our propane heater, and soon it was habitable. We had a leisurely breakfast and were underway by 10:30. The anchor was caked with mud and shells and took a while to clean but eventually we turned around and slowly headed to the marina. We motored slowly as we didn’t want to get to the marina too soon. In season, check in time is 1:00 but since they aren’t busy they let us come early. We pulled alongside the pier starboard side to at the fuel dock to top off the fuel tank and then moved forward to our slip for the weekend. We plugged in and turned the heat on, cleaned up and got ready to explore the island. But first we stopped by a nearby restaurant for another breakfast / brunch. Afterwards friends we met on the trip down last fall, Pete and Denise, drove over and picked us up for a tour of the island, their boat, and just great conversation. They are keeping their boat here for the winter and are quite versed in the local areas. We took a walk on the beautiful expansive beach in the center of the town and then walked through their marina – hopefully I will stay there on the way back north. Then after touring their Monk 36 trawler (and getting jealous of their room and amenities) and enjoying sharing stories we headed out to dinner in the area around their marina. The food was great, atmosphere on the heated ‘outdoor space’ superb, and continued conversation very enjoyable. Then they drove us back to our marina and we turned in for the night.

Today, Sunday, they have offered to come over and help us top off fresh items and anything we need at a store. Which, is very nice as without a car, the task is more challenging.

Tomorrow we need to get an early start to take advantage of high tide in the many areas of shallow water warnings. The weather is also turning cold for a day or two and this stretch we are anchoring out for 5 nights straight.

Trip 1 is complete. 5 Days     5 days to date. 104 miles    104 miles to date