Trip 2 - Week of anchoring out in the GA ICW

Leg 17 - Isle of Hope

We needed to get an early start today as high tide was 6:58. By leaving at 7:30 we were able to pass by the three cuts at a mid tide and not have any issues. So, the alarm went off, we had a quick breakfast and we were on our way in 39 degree sunny weather at 7:39. As hoped for, we had no issues as we went through Walls Cut, Fields Cut and Elba Island Cut. We traversed the Savanna River fighting a strong current but it was no match for The Office. We are enjoying the countryside and blue skies as we search out more critters. While Sue is a bit chilly I am able to keep warm with multiple layers – only my feet tend to get cold. We arrived at our anchorage at 13:40 and settled down below to warm up. Sue made hot chocolate and then I made cinnamon rolls. Yummy treats that also warm the place up. Right now It is 72 degrees in the saloon while being 55 outside. I have a few chores to do but will relax and watch the country side. Dinner tonight will be focused on using the stovetop to keep the place warm. Tonight it is supposed to be cold again but tomorrow temperatures start to hit the 60’s and even 70’s. Winds tonight should be between 5-8 with gusting maybe to 18. We have out a 5 to one scope so we should be just fine. I am watching how the tide effects us as we anchored at low tide and not we are on a flood tide.

Tomorrow we stay inland and end up at Walburg Creek Anchorage. We will leave at high tide (around 8 am) so that we pass through Hell Gate with enough water.

Leg 18 - Walburg Creek

The temperature outside was 38 when I awoke and only 46 inside. I started the coffee and Buddy to warm up the saloon. In no time coffee was ready and the temperature was a balmy 60 degrees. We had a simple breakfast of cereal and hard boiled eggs and Sue had yogurt as well with fresh fruit. We raised the anchor a little past high tide with very little current in the river and headed out for the only scary part of today’s journey – Hell Gate. It was about 2 hours away which meant there should be plenty of water and the risk was minimal. Sure enough, we arrived, we had plenty of water – never saw less than 12 feet – and we relaxed the remainder of the journey. While motoring along the Bear River,  Sue watched a fisherman in a john boat wait until a flock of about 20 brown pelicans line up behind the stern of the boat, three abreast, like a mother duckling and her chicks. Once they were perfectly aligned he would toss out chum and they would scatter to eat it. Then he would jet away for about 500 yards, wait, and repeat. Obviously, he had been training these birds over a period of time. Unbelievable to watch. In addition to brown pelicans, we have also seen a number of white pelicans. We have been looking for the otters but none sighted so far. Now that we are in Georgia many of the homes along the water front resemble the mansion in Gone with the Wind. Two story, tall pillars and wide porch. We turned off the ICW to head into Walburg Creek. While the chart said there was 8-10 feet the keel said otherwise and we stopped abruptly. I wiggled myself off the shoaled area and went further east around to much deeper water. Oops, cleaned the bottom of the keel on that one. We decided to anchor in about 17 feet of water so I adjusted Bobbie to account for the 7’ tide. Anchoring went smoothly and we retreated to the warmer saloon. While it is 60 degrees outside the wind is blowing 8-10 knots with gusts to 20+. Temperatures should not get too low tonight but the wind has finally arrived. I am keeping an eye on the anchor as the wind blows in the same direction of the current. High tide will be around 8:30 tonight and then we should swing in the other direction. Dinner tonight will be grilled salmon, brown rice, green beans and a fresh garden salad. We probably will play a board game or two before boaters midnight. Today we traveled 27.2 miles bringing the total for the trip to 158.7.

Tomorrow is another 5 hour day with no bridges or cuts to worry about. I am stopping short of the Little Mud River as the book recommends to only attempt to cross in high tide. We might opt to stay at New Teakettle Creek as the name sound neat.

Leg 19 - North River

Ok, yes, we got up had breakfast and got underway. The same thing each and every day. While the write ups all sound the same, each day’s journey through the low country has been unique seeing different towns, grand water side homes (fewer here in GA), water fowl (today we saw a family of hooded Merganser ducks with the little fluffy babies trailing behind with their tufted hairdo), birds (today we finally saw a bald eagle sitting in its huge nest), dolphins and the many different creeks, rivers, marshes, and sounds. Today, it was actually a little bit warm. Well, it could be that we have been in cold so long that we think 58 is warm but it only took 30 minutes to warm up the saloon. After breakfast I went forward to check on the anchor. Unfortunately the anchor float (aka Bobbie) was caught up in the anchor bridle. Not having any clue what was going on, I weighed the anchor to unhook the bridle. Then the boat moved quickly away from the float. It seems that in the strong wind and current direction change it became entangled. I was worried it also was caught on the keel or something of a bigger problem, but, alas, not a problem. You might notice that every day we seem to get underway a little later than the day prior. We are timing our departure to allow us to enjoy higher tides while traveling through areas of low water. I have planned the areas of concern to be in the beginning stages of the trip and the anchorage is planned prior to the next area. Today, we left at slack tide and removing the bridle, and anchor float and hauling in the anchor went very smoothly. Sue was still down below preparing for departure so I came back to the cockpit and got us underway. The first area of low water was at the south entrance of Walburg Creek but since we left at high tide (oh, by the way tide differentials are between 6 and 8 feet) there were no problems. We then went out of Walburg Creek into Johnson Creek for a while and then into South Newport River. The weather was warmer today and we were enjoying traveling without having multiple layers of clothing on. At the bottom of the South Newport River we motored into Sapelo Sound where we enjoyed the smell of the ocean along with the larger swells on the incoming tide. We headed back inland on an open water way which, if we had wind, would have been a grand time to sail. But, alas, the wind seems to only show up when we are doing multiple hairpin turns. As we were heading inland we could see Blackbeard Island on the port side. I wanted to take a side trip and look for treasure but time didn’t allow for it. Finally we arrived at Old Teakettle Creek, known for its many low water spots. But, we made it through with no issues. We finally anchored in North River around low tide in about 13 feet of water so I set Bobbie to 22 feet to allow for the 7 foot tidal change. We took advantage of the hot water created by the engine and took showers and then spent the afternoon relaxing in the cockpit listening to the woosh of the dolphins surfacing and watching the pelicans dive for their dinner. Speaking of dinner, we had grilled London broil, green beans, sautéed onions and potatoes, and salad with red wine.

Tomorrow high tide is after 9 am so we can get up later and have a nice breakfast of eggs and bacon and toast. Then we get underway for the dreaded Little Mud River. It has depths of less than 4 feet at mean low water – one must go through at high tide or get stuck in the stinky mud. Here is tomorrow’s plan. I made tomorrows trip short to allow for waiting for high tide to get through The Little Mud River

Leg 20 - Wally Leg / Frederica River

Wow, it is so nice to wake up to 60+ degrees sunny mornings. Today I made the coffee and then fired Buddy up for a brief period to take off the chill.  Breakfast was a relaxed morning of bacon and eggs and raisin bread. Recovering the anchor went flawlessly and we were on our way right around high tide to tackle The Little Mud River. Winds started out light with a partly cloudy sky, but, as it was yesterday, temperatures warmed up into the low 70’s. Because we left at high tide The Little Mud River was not an issue. I did see a spot where it reregistered 9’ so take away the 7 foot tide and you will understand why it is not recommended to traverse anytime other than from rising mid to falling mid tide. We were headed to The Wallys Leg Anchorage but winds were picking up and the forecast called for gusting in the high 20’s so we looked for something with more cover. We agreed upon an anchorage in The Frederica River near Fort Frederica National Monument. It preserves the archaeological remnants of a fort and town built between 1736 and 1748 to protect the southern boundary of the British colony of Georgia from Spanish raids. About 630 British troops were stationed here (Waterway Guide pg 336). Yikes, it seems desolate now, I can’t imagine what it was like in the 18th century. The arrival here was unique with 6’ tall cordgrass on either side reminding us of the movie The African Queen with Bogart and Hepburn. It is a little different anchorage than what we have experienced before. There is the usual marsh cordgrass on one side, but Spanish moss covered live oaks and pine on the other. The wind and current are fighting each other pushing us back and forth and making it rather uncomfortable. And of course gives me more anxiety with the holding of the anchor. At least it is not a crowded anchorage where we would have to worry about the swing of other boats. Well, dinner is grilled burger for me and chicken for Sue with a fresh green salad (must eat while it remains fresh) and mac and cheese. Tomorrow, a short trip to a marina in Jekyll Island.

Leg 21 - Jekyll Island

Today was the first overcast day at breakfast. This was threatening looking so we rushed breakfast to try and beat the rain – which wasn’t forecasted until after noon. The anchor came up fine – even though we passed by it overnight as the tide changed multiple times. Some people have problems with the anchor chain getting wrapped around the anchor when this happens. I keep wondering when that will happen. So far, all was good. So, the rain didn’t wait. About 30 minutes after we got underway it started raining here and there. Then, around 10 it really poured as we went out into St. Simons Sound. Luckily there weren’t many other boats out in this weather. Finally we made it into the East River and then into the narrow Jekyll River. This is another path you don’t want to take during low tide as I saw nothing deeper than 14 feet and most of it was around 10-12. This is with a 9 foot high tide. Anyway, we got to the marina and the rain decided to give us a break as we tied up. We cleaned up everything and headed to the marina office. We soaked in some local knowledge and then took a courtesy golf cart for a ride around the island. This was our first time off the boat in 5 days so we had to remember how to walk again. First stop, the GA Sea Turtle Museum and Rescue where we learned all about sea turtles. Then we continued our tour through the majestic streets with very large live oaks and tall pines totally covered in Spanish moss. Quite exquisite. Once back aboard we gathered laundry and took it up to the marina building where Sue did two loads. Finally, dinner at their local restaurant that just reopened today. It was a festive event. Now, tired and full, its boaters midnight.

We are staying here for the next few days. I need to replan some future stop to take advantage of weather. Hopefully it starts to warm up a bit and anchoring out won’t be as chilly. But, for now, the 74 degrees outside is just wonderful.