ICW mile zero in Norfolk VA.
Made it through the Gilmerton bridge.
Top Rack marina. Our neighbor. Nice looking boat.
In the Great Bridge locks.
At Coinjock Marina - a trawler we met along the way - Irish Inn.
The long dock at Coinjock.
Currituck Sound - looks like a lot of water but it is very shallow most places.
The Alligator River bridge.
Anchoring in the bottom of the Alligator River. We go through the 22 mile long canal tomorrow.
Belhaven marina.
Sailing to Oriental.
Along the way some land anchorages.
Beaufort, NC.
Very high water - King tides.
Visit to the museum.
10/31/2021 Sunday Leg 1 – Norfolk to Top Rack
A short trip planned today. We had an enjoyable three days in Waterside Marina enjoying downtown Norfolk, visiting with our friends, and touring the USS Wisconsin and the Nauticus Museum. After enjoying this great stopover at Waterside Marina we are heading south. We are focused on getting through the limited opening of the Gilmerton lift bridge and then stopping at Top Rack marina. Today our trip should be about 5 miles and 1 hour, depending on how long we wait on the bridge. A gentle start to the trip – after a very aggressive trip down the bay in 2 days.
Today’s trip was a great start. The weather was dry and temps got into the low 70’s with a bright sunny sky. We wound about the river through the many shipyards of Norfolk, Portsmouth, Chesapeake, and finally came to rest at a little marina called Top Rack. We filled up on fuel and then docked next to our travel buddy boat. After lunch we relaxed and soaked in the warm afternoon sun. Then our VA Beach friends, Kevin and Amy, drove down to meet us for dinner at the Amber Lantern marina restaurant. All in all, it was a relaxing day with good friends and good food.
11/01/2021 Monday Leg 2 - Top Rack to Coinjock NC
Monday our travels will be a bit more aggressive. We expect to be out of the slip by 7:50 so that we get to the Great Bridge Lock for the 8:30 opening. Then we have to get between two bridges that have openings that are very close together but not in time. So, hopefully we can get through one bridge and make it to the other for the next opening. Total distance is expected to be 35 miles and hopefully 7 hours. We should end the day at a marina in Coinjock NC.
The trip to Coinjock was lots of fun. After a light breakfast of toast, hard boiled eggs and coffee, we headed out early to catch the 8:30 Great Bridge Lock and then once we were cleared we raced to get through two more bridges. We missed the 10:00 AM opening on the second bridge so we had to sit until the 11:00 AM but other than that it was nice motoring all day. The sun was out all day with short naps behind clouds but otherwise it was comfortable weather. Sue was enjoying the nature we were emersed in and I was enjoying a simple, follow the chart motoring. We arrived at Coinjock mid afternoon and after we tied up we had our friends over for appetizers. Then we walked the docks to meet people who were passing us and whom we passed along the way. Many of us will be in the same place tomorrow so it was nice to meet everyone. We enjoyed a great dinner at the famous Coinjock restaurant, known for it’s 32 oz prime rib dinner, and then headed to bed.
11/02/2021 Tuesday Leg 3 - Coinjock to Alligator River
Tuesday we plan to head down the North River out across the Albemarle Sound and into the Alligator River. Winds are to be very light so there will not be an opportunity to sail in the Sound. Total distance for this trip is 45.8 miles and should take 8-9 hours.
Tuesday we were up at 6:30 for an 8:30 departure out of Coinjock. We finished up breakfast and got everything ready and I shoved “Far Fetched” off and then got “The Office” underway. It was a very nice scenic ride out of Coinjock down to North Landing River and across the Albemarle Sound. We entered the Alligator River and asked for the bridge opening about ½ mile out and there were no issues. All went very smoothly and we traveled down the river past the opening to the cannel where we dropped the hook in 10 feet of water off of Tuckahoe Point. We relaxed with drinks and snacks until sundown and then grilled salmon, served with brussel sprouts and rice pilaf. Winds were supposed to be light from the south but instead they were in the 20’s from the north. Finally around 10:00 PM they calmed down so I called it a night. Once again, a very nice travel day.
11/03/2021 Wednesday Leg 4 - Alligator River to Belhaven NC
Wednesday the plan is to travel to Belhaven NC and tie up in a marina. Most of the trip is a straight shot in the 22 mile Alligator River Pungo River Canal. The total distance should be about 30 miles and 6 hours. Here is the chart view.
On Wednesday we traveled from Tuckahoe Point on the Alligator River to Belhaven. After a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs to warm up the saloon and get us ready for a cold day, we raised the anchor and headed towards the canal. Traveling through the 22 mile Alligator River Pungo River Canal we encountered many interesting aspects. First, was the nature and views of the marshlands. Second, was the ‘culture’ of ICW traveling, as in the event of the ‘Slow Pass’. The (normally) faster power boat comes up from behind and asks for slow pass. The slower vessel (usually us sailboats) responds over the radio and pulls a little to starboard (normally) and slows way down. Then the faster boat gently goes by being focused on not leaving a strong wake. We had that fun experience, all day long listening to the VHF radio. Then of course, many of these boats came into the marina so we got to meet and greet with them over dinner. When we finally got to the Pungo River we let out the genoa to sail for a few hours before heading into the marina in Belhaven. Before heading to the docks we were directed to the City Dock for a requested pump out. It was not something I would recommend as I first had to run into town to get a 5$ token to operate the pump out and we had to do everything ourselves. Also, a small power boat was blocking most of the dock area and we had to squeeze in. But now, at least, the holding tanks were mostly empty. We then backed out of the City docks and headed over to Belhaven docks where we had the outer most location – making it easier for departure tomorrow. After cleaning up, we went to the Spoon River restaurant for dinner with Marty and Stephanie. Full of fresh air and food as well as tired, we had an early bedtime, otherwise know as boater’s midnight.
11/04/2021 Thursday Leg 5 - Belhaven to Oriental NC
Ok, now for Leg 5 – our trip to go from Belhaven to Oriental. This will be a long ride of over 45 miles down the Pungo River, into Goose Creek and into the Neuse River. Hopefully the weather holds but we are preparing for some rain.
Today was quite an adventure. We were leaving Belhaven and I called the marina in Oriental. It was about 45 miles and should take about 6-7 hours. The good news after contacting the marina was that they had our reservation and we were all set. The challenging news was that he wasn’t expecting us until 6 PM and he had us on the fuel dock so the earliest we could arrive was 5 PM Well, that allowed us to sail the entire distance – just about 42 of the 45 miles was sailing. The winds were from the N or NW at 15 – 20 knots which meant we were on a run or a broad reach the entire time. We sailed out of the Pungo River, into the Pamlico River and then into Goose Creek, then Bay River and finally into the Neuse River. The sailing was great, for sure, but around 2 PM, because the winds were so strong, we were still projected to arrive before 5. So, I had to reef the jib to less than 50% but we still were going over 4.5 knots. The winds were getting stronger, the air colder, and there was rain in the distance behind us. Finally around 3:45 I called the marina and asked (almost begged) if we could come in early as no one else was out here and it was getting cold. They relented and let us dock around 4 PM A great day with lots of fresh air. Sue heated sausage and gravy with biscuits for a late second breakfast or early lunch while underway and then also made hot chocolate in the afternoon. We met up with Marty and Stephanie as well as with our new friends Pete and Denise for dinner. Then back to The Office for boater’s midnight.
11/05/2021 Friday Leg 6 - Oriental to Beaufort
Well, Friday the weather is supposed to turn a little colder and possible rainy. We have about 20 miles to go to Beaufort. Here is our projected route. First we cross the Neuse River and then in protected areas most of the rest of the way.
Friday we got underway 10:30 AM from Oriental. The ride was fun as we were moving through neighborhoods and checking out all the unique houses and properties. One house had a helicopter in the back yard, others not so lucky. At first we were quite warm and then it became cooler. The winds were again from the north between 15 and 18 knots so as soon as we were out of the breakwater we raised the jib to sail across the Neuse River. Once in Adams Creek we dropped the sail to motor through the creek. We were trying to go slowly as we wanted to avoid the current while docking in Beaufort NC. However, due to the strong current in the creek we were being pushed along at almost 6 knots so we actually arrived at 2:15 PM The current was strong but that was no excuse for my poor docking. Regardless, no one lost any limbs and the boat is fine so all is well. I went up to the office to pay and dropped my credit card through the decking. I tried to fish it out (over dirt) but, too no avail, so I called Discover and cancelled the card. Rats.
The weather is predicted to be rainy, windy, and cold for the next few days so we will stay here an extra day. Of course, now I have to contact all future marinas to move expected arrival dates. We now have a bit of a break and expect to get going on Monday again. Break is over. We had a very nice time in Beaufort. We hit all the shops and ate at the many fine restaurants available. We even spent a short afternoon in the local maritime Museum, which was a great overview of the wildlife in the NC tidewater as well as a thorough review of the pirate Blackbeard and his sunken ship, Queen Ann’s Revenge.