Despite crowded mooring fields and pricey provisions, the British Virgin Islands (BVI) did not disappoint. This string of 50-plus volcanic islands is popular among sailors for a reason, as we recently learned first-hand. The relaxed, easy sailing, eye-popping seafoam-colored water, perfectly placed palm trees, well-stocked beach bars, and the odd secluded beach won us over.
In late January, just as 18 inches of snow were falling on Maryland, we made a mad sprint to catch our flights to paradise. We bareboat chartered two catamarans that held our group of 20, mostly comprised of Annapolis sailors. We were a mix of BVI newbies and frequent visitors. Eleven of us sailed a 50-foot Saba while nine of us sailed a 47-foot Fountaine Pajot Tanna.
A BVI sailing extravanza
For two years, Annapolis sailor Mike Jewell planned a sailing extravaganza for his 60th birthday, including a week with his family and a week with his close friends, aka his “other” family. Coordinating flights, provisioning food and alcohol, and creating itineraries demanded several Zoom calls, text messages, and excel spreadsheets. In the end, we all landed in Tortola, taxied to BVI Yacht Charters in Road Town, and began our weeklong stay aboard.
After a thorough chart and systems briefing by a helpful staff person named Tika, she helped us off the dock. Do not be a hero. Everyone on our boat is an experienced sailor, but the charter company wedges the boats tighter than passengers flying coach. Tika nimbly got us off the dock with about three feet of wiggle room on either end, working the throttles in 24 knots of breeze. She is my new hero.
The wind whipped through our hair as we entered the Sir Francis Drake Channel, a deep blustery strait that connects much of the island chain. Our itinerary took us from Road Town, Tortola, to North Sound, Virgin Gorda; Anegada; Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke; and to the Bight at Norman Island, with a stop at the Indians: four rocky outcrops great for snorkeling. The steady Caribbean Christmas Winds delivered a consistent breeze between 17 and 20 knots all week. Sailing was possible every day.
I arrived with plenty of sunscreen and no preconceived ideas. This way, I felt as though we made our own little discoveries in these well-trampled cruising grounds.
Highlights:
The Baths: on Virgin Gorda are as close to mandatory as they come in the BVI. Amble through a watery maze of school bus–size boulders formed by an ancient underwater volcano. A series of ladders and ropes led us to cool blue grottos tucked along a white-sand beach. We arrived via taxi from Leverick Bay, but boats can moor there and you can swim in. Check bathsflagstatus.com for daily coastal water conditions. Don’t miss the BVI cocktail, the Bushwacker, a boozy chocolate and coconut drink that tastes like a milkshake. I recommend the Bushwacker at the Top of the Baths restaurant.
Snorkeling: We snorkeled whenever and wherever we could, which was about every day. While coral reefs in many parts of the Caribbean are fading, sea life is still abundant. Our group collectively saw sea turtles, a 15-foot nurse shark, sting rays, and schools of yellow and blue reef fish so thick you had to part them with your hands. Pack your own snorkel and mask; I was happy with the free pair of fins complements of the charter company, but others brought their own. We recommend snorkeling at Loblobby Bay on Anegada, The Indians, and the Caves on Norman Island. Also, we snorkeled from our anchorage in the Bight on Norman Island where we swam with sea turtles and spied on cuttlefish.
Happy Hours on Saba Rock: The BVI are littered with beachy bars, but Saba Rock’s Sunset Bar hit the mark, and not just for its $5 drink specials. From 4-6 p.m. daily, sailors from around the world gather on this one-acre island/resort. Someone described Saba as a mix of a Jimmy Buffett song and a Hemingway novel, and I felt that. The sunset from this rock in North Sound is stunning.
Eleven tips for a BVI charter
- Have at least one person along with your designated skipper present at the mandatory boat briefing with the charter company. The information on the heads, windlass, VHF, water system, generator, dinghy, and sails comes at you fast. Take notes and check that everything is functioning properly.
- Consider renting fishing gear. We rented trolling and casting gear and caught a big-eye tuna Northeast of Anegada. We quickly turned it into tuna ceviche.
- Check the cruise ship schedule before heading to the Baths to avoid the crowds: bviports.org
- Calculate how much cash you think you’ll need and double it. You’ll need cash for taxis for onshore adventures, and trash disposal and ice; even many restaurants prefer cash. ATMs are hard to find.
- Order toys for the boat. Several outfitters will rent you boat accessories. We chose floating beach chairs, a double kayak, dinghy ladder, and a Sunchill inflatable large mesh float that held all of us.
- Pack light: A few beach outfits, two or more bathing suits, a lightweight long sleeve shirt, and a good hat for sun protection. Consider bringing walking shoes or good-traction sandals for hiking around the islands.
- Use the buddy system, especially while snorkeling. Our large group often split up to pursue the activity of their choice, but it’s smart to make sure no one is alone, especially in water.
- Bring a favorite knife, spices, and other galley necessities. The galley tools on the boats are lackluster and frustrating. Try cutting limes with a butter knife.
- Check out less touristy bars. While I felt obliged as a first-timer to the BVI to visit the Soggy Dollar and Foxy’s, next time I will seek out less crowded, spring-break types of beach bars. For a more relaxed scene with silky white sand and frozen drinks, head to Anegada and go to the Cow Wreck Beach Bar, Tipsy’s, or Big Bamboo Beach Bar.
- Bring an old towel. When you return your boat, the charter company will donate the towel to an animal shelter. Now you have room for the Soggy Dollar T-shirts you bought. Win-win!
- Use the BoatyBall app for reserving mooring balls in high demand locations. Set your alarm for 6:59 a.m. to reserve at 7 a.m., the soonest you can book for that day.
By Carrie Gentile
