See the Bay: Cruising Sailors Find Abundant Options Along the Choptank River
Every season we look forward to pointing the bow of our cruising boat towards the mouth of the Choptank River to visit the quaint towns and peaceful anchorages that line its shores. Oxford and Cambridge are obvious choices for sailors, but there are hidden gems along the way or within a short detour.
Approaching the Choptank from the North
Boaters approaching the Choptank River from the north have a decision to make: take the shortcut through Knapps Narrows or the longer route around the south end of Tilghman Island? That answer may vary each journey, depending on draft, currents, tidal range, local knowledge, and courage. With our five-and-a-half-foot draft, we have braved this passage a few times, holding our breath and being grateful for good advice.
If you go through Knapps Narrows, you may pass near Poplar Island, which is being rebuilt with dredged material. When the restoration began in 2001, the island had eroded to less than five acres. Now the island encompasses more than 1700 acres. Home to large nesting colonies, it is also a popular stopover site for migratory birds. I recently enjoyed a private group tour of the island and was surprised to discover the vast ecosystem that isn’t visible through binoculars as we sail by. To learn more, visit maryland-DMMP.com.
There are marinas and restaurants at Knapp Narrows, as well as suitable anchorages up Harris Creek. We have stayed in Dun and Waterhole Coves, leaving our dinghy at a public dock to walk to Lowe’s Wharf on the Bay side for dinner. For provisioning, there’s a well-stocked country store on the main road just south of the bridge.
Are you aware that St. Michaels can be accessed “on the back side” from the Choptank rather than the Miles River? By sailing up Broad Creek, you can anchor in San Domingo Creek, about 10 nautical miles from Knapps Narrows Bridge. It’s a wide and deep enough anchorage, with easy access to a public dinghy dock at the end of Chew Avenue. It’s a five-minute walk to the charming town with many shops, restaurants, and attractions.
Approaching the Choptank from the South
When approaching from the south, sailors often explore the Little Choptank River before continuing to the mouth of the larger river. Mind your depths, especially near James Island, which may appear as shallows on your charts since most of the island is underwater. There is good news! James will soon be restored with dredge material, as Poplar Island has been.
The Little Choptank offers many gunkhole options depending on desired wind protection, with good depths and wide expanses. A few years ago, we enjoyed an idyllic anchorage in Hudson Creek on Labor Day weekend near Casson Point, a popular fishing hole. We were one of only two sailboats tucked just inside.
Great Towns Along the Choptank
When entering the Choptank River from the Bay, sailors will pass the imposing Sharps Island Light. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it was struck by an ice floe in 1977 and now leans 15 degrees as it warns of shallow waters at the mouth of the river. If buoys and depths are carefully observed, you may make a safe passage from either north or south of the light. Once inside the Choptank River, sailors have delightful choices for exploring several Eastern Shore towns and quiet coves.
Oxford
The quaint town of Oxford is just 11 miles away from the Choptank’s mouth, at the beginning of the Tred Avon River. Part of its rich history will become apparent as you near Red 2 and dodge the nation’s oldest private ferry that runs between Oxford and Bellevue every 20 minutes.
For a transient slip at one of several marinas in Town Creek, or a spot in the limited anchorage closer to town, turn to starboard through the narrow channel. You might be able to secure free dockage while dining at Capsize, or even an overnight slip for a nominal fee. If you choose to anchor farther away, many tranquil coves along the Tred Avon can satisfy any forecasted winds. We’ve dropped the hook in Plaindealing Creek, Flatty Cove, and Goldsborough Creek, with the latter being our favorite.
We take the dinghy into Town Creek and tie up at the end of Market Street. It’s a short walk to Morris Street for lunch at the Oxford Market, gift shopping at the Treasure Chest, or dinner at the Robert Morris Inn. There’s a scenic park across from the Scottish Highland Creamery, perfect for eating hand-dipped ice cream while lazily watching sailboats on the river. We often shop for used books at Mystery Loves Company and enjoy visiting the Oxford Museum or Oxford Library for local culture.
Easton
We have never ventured the additional six miles up the Tred Avon to Easton, but we have sailing friends who rave about it. Stately homes line the river, including the estate that was in the 2000 film “The Wedding Crashers.” Our friends typically anchor in Peach Blossom Creek with generous space and depths. They dinghy farther up the river to Easton Point Marina, which is under new management. The marina has transient slips, sells ethanol-free gasoline, and allows dinghies to tie up. From there, it’s a 25-minute walk up Port Street to the historic town whose population of 17,000 enjoys great restaurants, shops, and art galleries. Boat guests may join or depart via the Bay Runner Shuttle bus that operates between BWI Airport and other Maryland towns several times per day.
Cambridge
We have sailed to Cambridge at least a dozen times over the last 15 years. This historic city is about 16 miles from the mouth of the Choptank and is well worth the trip. Sailors may opt for a transient slip at the edge of town near Long Wharf Park, at the Cambridge Yacht Basin, or at the Cambridge Yacht Club. From there, they can watch competitive Wednesday night keelboat racing or Thursday night dinghy racing, and take a short walk into town for dining or shopping.
There is also an adjacent anchorage, just before these slips, but it only offers protection from southwest winds. For that reason, and for easier access to the walkable town, we typically turn hard to starboard before the fixed Route 50 bridge. We follow the well-marked channel of Cambridge Creek and tie up at the municipal bulkhead near Snappers restaurant, enjoying free dockage at the county wall for up to 72 hours. That’s ample time to explore the town, reprovision, or dine at one of 20 restaurants. For those in search of pampering, the waterfront Hyatt Regency is three miles away and offers spa treatments, golfing, and other resort amenities.
Amazing Options
Wherever you choose to sail along the Choptank, whether in search of peaceful anchorages or quaint historic towns, you will discover a range of experiences that only the Chesapeake can offer within a few short hours of sailing. Go explore!
About the author: Captain Cheryl Duvall is a USCG Licensed Master, Inland 100 GRT. When she isn’t sailing Belle Bateau, you might find her at the helm of Watermark’s Miss Anne in Annapolis. Email her at [email protected].
