Swan Creek by Sailboat

Swan Creek Gives Sailors Access to Bustling Rock Hall, But with a Secluded Getaway

The first place I ever stayed on my sailboat was on a mooring ball at Swan Creek Marina. Back then, I was too nervous to drop an anchor. I didn’t like slips, because I was new to boathandling and got stressed out squeezing between pilings. Grabbing a mooring ball is inexpensive and super easy, and you don’t have to worry about scratching your gel coat or dragging anchor. Over the years, my boat handling skills have improved, so on this most recent visit to Swan, we took a slip. Truthfully, we wanted to explore Rock Hall and weren’t in the mood to pump up the dinghy.

Fresh crabs in Rock Hall, next door to Swan Creek
Fresh crabs in Rock Hall, next door to Swan Creek

Rock Hall is definitely worth checking out. Both the Waterman’s Crab House and the Harbor Shack (both on the water) serve great summer fun food and host great entertainment. During the day, take a stroll around town; historic Durding’s Store has old-fashioned ice cream and homemade baked goods that are to die for. If you like being in the middle of the party scene, you can even grab a slip in Rock Hall. But for me, staying in Swan is a better call. You can party like a rock star in town and walk back to sleepy, peaceful, Swan Creek. I’ve spent many a dreamy night there listening to the wind whistle through the masts in the marina. One drawback of Swan Creek is that it’s a bit of a hike to Rock Hall. That being said, there’s a trolley that makes the run, but you have to know the schedule. One thing I wouldn’t recommend is taking your dinghy to Rock Hall. We tried that once. It was a disaster. Swan is well protected, but once you exit the mouth of the creek, you’re totally exposed to the open Bay. The weather hits you like a ton of bricks. I have a small roll-up dinghy that holds three people. On that particular night, we were three, so the dinghy’s limit was maxed. It was blowing 15 on the Bay, and the seas were three feet tall, so you can do the math. By the time I came to my senses and turned the stupid thing around, we were all drenched.

Needless to say, on this most recent trip we walked into town. As I said, there’s a trolley (which is handy if you need to provision), but the walk is really kind of nice. Aside from the action down on the water, Rock Hall is a sleepy town, and walking her tree-lined streets on a warm summer evening, with a bit of wind blowing through the trees, is heavenly. If you’re not looking for live bands and action and prefer a more intimate, romantic, gourmet dinner in a classic Eastern Shore Inn, you don’t even have to leave the Swan. Just dinghy over to The Osprey Point Inn; they have an amazing chef.

Rock Hall and Swan Creek are not just good weekend destinations, they’re also great places to go for a long daysail. You can tie up in Rock Hall for free, grab lunch, and walk around town, or sail over to Swan and fire up the grill. My only warning is to make sure you don’t have to be back home at any time special. This place can suck you in, and before you know it, the sun is setting. Of course, there’s nothing better than sailing back across the Bay at night with a full summer moon.

Swan was our last stop before heading back to Baltimore. You would think that after two weeks on the water, we’d be ready to get home, but you couldn’t be farther from the truth. I find the longer you stay out on the Bay, the more you want to stay. This trip was no different. One nice thing about having a boat on the Bay is you know you’re coming back. All winter long I dreamed about the new adventures waiting for me out on the Chesapeake.

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