Century Club: Suzanne Fryberger

Sunday, December 24, 2023
Number of days:
1 day
  • Starting out at Elk River Park Boat Launch
  • Exploring beaver and muskrat trails amongst the cattails.
  • A stand of bald cypress.
  • The old Trojan Boat Company, closed since 1989.
  • Old Standard Oil dock
  • The Stone House at Elk Landing; Background left - the Hollingsworth House
  • Hello! In the background, Dobbs "fishes" for vintage treasure.
  • We find WWII wooden bombs!
  • Serene skies and tranquil waters at day's end.

Dobbs and I explored the Elk River at its very north end, where it's fed by the Little Elk and Big Elk Creeks.  The Elk River Park Boat Launch offers a good starting place (and it's free for kayaks).  For almost 200 years, this now-tranquil stretch of water saw plenty of action.  In 1735, Zebulon Hollingsworth, Sr. began buying the land that would become Elk Landing and provide a convenient point of shipping between Baltimore and Philadelphia.  In 1777, British invaders under General Howe disembarked from about 250 vessels which had sailed up the Chesapeake Bay.  About 15,000 to 18,000 British troops passed through en route to capture the capitol in Philadelphia.  The area continues to be involved in the war until around 1813.  By 1840, railroads and the C&D Canal have pushed Elk Landing into the shipping background.  Then, in 1887, Henry Diebert moved from Pennsylvania with his family and a work crew to begin building barges on Little Elk Creek.  The barges ranged from 100-200' in length, which is something to imagine while floating alongside the site of Diebert Brothers today.  Most of the creek is scarcely a foot deep, and I doubt it's 100' wide.  Upstream, from 1938 until 1945, Triumph Explosives produced munitions for the war effort - we're considering them the "smoking gun" for the ordinance we found.  Last of all, Trojan Boat Company opened a plant on the Elk River in 1965 and would continue building boats there until 1989. 

Today, without looking closely, a person might see only marsh and an old stone tavern; with a little more mucking about and alot more imagination, history comes alive!  

Friday, December 15, 2023
Number of days:
1 day
  • Mt. Ararat
  • Looking north from Vulcan Materials toward Port Deposit
  • Railroad trestle over unnamed stream at southern tip of St. Catherine Island
  • Post-lunch at southern entrance to section of Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal at St. Catherine's Island

Continuing with our exploration of historic industrial remnants along the Lower Susquehanna River, Dobbs and I kayaked between Port Deposit and I-95 on both shores.  Launching from Marina Park in Port Deposit and paddling south, we came to face Mt. Ararat, a wall of rock rising 200' straight up out of the river - it's breath-taking.  Here, I must admit to being a conflicted graffiti afficianado - while I'm opposed to tresspassing and vandalism, I can't help but admire some of the graffiti I see, and one of these is The Eye on Mt. Ararat.  It's considered a landmark and even has a Facebook page, I've just learned.  Back in late November 1998 when Dobbs and I passed Mt. Ararat for the first time, underway in our 22' sailboat WHIMSEY bound for Florida, everything was chaos - we didn't know a thing about what we were doing, just learning as fast as we could on our feet - and yet I remembered The Eye.  Since then, I'd wondered if it was still there - it is!

We crossed the Susquehanna, following the I-95 bridge pilings about halfway, and then drifting south with the current toward the north end of Vulcan Materials.  The river was running significantly stronger compared to our paddle on 12/01.  We followed the western shore north, studying the railroad.  The rails are noticeably lighter than standard rails, and that's because this railroad was built (by the Philadelphia Electric Company) only to facilitate construction of the Conowingo Dam, in 1926.  It's but 9 miles long and the river has been hard on it, washing it out in floods and busting it up with ice.  When we stopped for lunch at the southern entrance to the Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal at St. Catherine's Island, we hiked up to take a closer look at a little trestle that spans an unnamed creek.  We paddled in and out of the canal (it's choked with mud a short way in) and then up to Lapidum Landing.  A north wind - strangely warm - blew strong for about an hour, making for even harder work against the current.  We crossed the river the same way we did on the 1st, but then turned south and drifted along the Port Deposit shoreline.  I have to say that Port Deposit sold it's soul to development the day it allowed condos and high/dry boat storage to completely blanket its waterfront in ugly white and gray vinyl (I remember it before, same as Perryville, when it was an industrial waterfront that at least had character).  It's not like I didn't know the condos were there, it's just harder to witness up close.  We owe a return trip to Port Deposit for a walking tour, in search of the history we know remains.

Friday, December 1, 2023
Number of days:
1 day
  • Looking south from Lapidum Landing
  • In the Susquehanna Canal behind Sterret Island
  • Happy to be exploring a section of canal we've pondered for many years
  • Where the original section of the Susquehanna Canal shallows to be impassable
  • Great Blue Heron (I think) rookery on Roberts Island
  • At the south end of Wood Island, looking back north toward Rock Run Grist Mill and old bridge pilings

I like to do something special on my birthday, and this year - celebrating 47! - I chose kayaking, even in the rain.  I wanted to explore the Susquehanna River between Lapidum Landing and as far north as the outflow from the Conowingo Dam would allow.  Dobbs and I share a fascination with historic industry - mills, railroads, canals - and the banks of the Susquehanna are home to all three.  Lapidum Landing - on the western shore in Harford County - is now a ghost town, but at one time it was significant as the farthest north deepwater port on the Susquehanna.  Just above it lies Smith's Falls.  Remains of wharves can be seen lining the bank and a few buildings remain along the old Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal; some locks are still visible, too.  A ferry ran between here and Port Deposit before the bridge between Rock Run Mill and Port Deposit (now just crumbling pilings) was completed.  By 1900, the sources of Lapidum's commerce and prosperity were lost to railroad competition.  On the eastern shore, the Susquehanna Canal (not to be confused with the Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal) ran from Port Deposit to the present site of the Conowingo Dam.  Chartered in 1783, it never prospered (it was never finished due to funding issues and the original section was too shallow to be practical) and in 1840 was closed completely.  The Columbia & Port Deposit Railroad (soon to become part of the Pennsylvania RR) went through Port Deposit around 1868. 

Dobbs and I launched our kayaks at Lapidum Landing and crossed the Susquehanna heading north toward Rock Run Landing.  The current pushing us downriver was noticeable but manageable; two large rocks that break the surface made for a nice stopping place mid-way.  There's an abandoned brick building adjacent to Rock Run that appears to be a 20th century power plant.  We continued north, passing to the east of Steel Island, the current building as we entered Smiths Falls.  From here to the entrance to the canal south of Sterret Island, the going was tough - every paddle stroke hard and fast in order to make headway.  While it was December outside, it got mighty hot and humid inside my life preserver and foul-weather gear.  Inside the canal, our respite was short-lived as we found the north half this section collapsed into rocky falls.  Carefully clambering while dragging our kayaks astern, we hiked the rest of the way to the river.  Next up was another push north to get into the section of canal by the Union Hotel.  With effort, we made it and paddled until the canal shallowed out into mud and deadfall.  Another portage might have seen us clear up to Octoraro Creek, but we were out of time (and tired).  Instead, we pointed our bows south and exited the canal the way we'd come.  We crossed the river to follow the western shore, noting the roar of the rapids and enjoying a little gentle whitewater kayaking.  As we were cutting to go between Robert Island and Wood Island, we spotted the trestle bridge over Deer Creek - a landmark.  We could give it only a moment's attention as we threaded through rapids to get close to the little island that hosts a great blue heron rookery.  A quick drift downstream and it was time to behold the old bridge pilings.  We cut back to the western shore north of Snake Island and followed the bank back to Lapidum Landing.  

Wednesday, November 15, 2023
Number of days:
1 day
  • Stripped of sails, canvas, and running rigging, she waits.

I still hold my breath every time the Travelift hoists GRACE clear of the water.  A boat seems so fragile dangling in the air.  Also, it's such a defining moment - one minute a sailboat, the next...a project.  And so it begins.

Monday, October 9, 2023 to Tuesday, November 7, 2023
Number of days:
22 days
  • The Chapel
  • Maryland Dove at dock, with St. Mary's College sailors practicing in background
  • Smith Island, looking north
  • Ready to bicycle on Smith Island
  • Ewell, Smith Island
  • A sunset that's hard to leave behind - Ruke's Memorial Dock, Smith Island
  • Pocomoke City Town Dock
  • Kalmar Nyckel
  • Downrigging in progress
  • Happy Halloween!
  • A self-reminder of how cold it gets...
  • ...and a reminder that it's worth it!

From Solomons, we proceeded south to Historic St. Mary's City.  I found the presentation interesting in how it differed from other historic sites and museums I've visited - that the focus is on preserving and displaying what's below the ground (archaeologically-speaking) more so than re-creating what was once above it.    

Our next stop was one of our perennial favorites - Smith Island.  We're grateful to the citizens for creating Ruke's Memorial Dock so that we can stay and absorb all the goodness of Smith Island.  We rented bicycles from Jack and Pickles and rode every road on the island - the vistas are amazing, and then later visited the Shanty for arcade amusement and socializing.  The latter is a fairly new development, and we liked being able to interact with the locals - both adults and teenagers - in a relaxed atmosphere.  

Sailing away from Smith Island is hard, but I know I'm not "local" material because I go pretty easily when a storm is brewing.  When it's fixing to blow, I want high ground and trees between me and the Bay, and Mill Creek off the Great Wicomico provides beautifully.  We spent two days there and then, on what turned out to be a memorably low-balled NOAA forecast, we sailed for Pocomoke City.  What a ride!  After laying down substantially in the morning, the wind came back unexpectedly and with a vengeance.  I'd barely gone forward to set the first reef when I could see wind to the north of us blowing the tops off the waves and knew I should go right to the second reef.  The waves south and then east of Tangier Island were substantial, hissing up on our stern quarter and then smacking us on the nose as we turned north into Pocomoke Sound.  When it was finally time to bear off to the east toward the cypress-lined Pocomoke River, we were grateful.  Pocomoke City is up the Pocomoke River, in the NE corner of Pocomoke Sound.  This historic town offers overnight free dockage.  There's little going on there these days, but everyone we met was friendly and from a myriad of cultural backgrounds.

From Pocomoke City, we motored south to Onancock, VA - another friendly, historic town, and, for us, Onancock means donuts from The Corner Bakery.  A bonus this visit was borrowing the town wharf's courtesy car and driving to Saxis, VA.  It's actually referred to as Saxis Island because it might as well be - for the first few hundred years, the primary access to the island was by boat; even now, it's at the end of a long, narrow, low-lying road through wetland - one of those places where you check the fuel tank level before heading out.  Similar to Deal Island, Smith Island, and Tangier Island to name a few, the community evolved around the commercial fishing industry and is facing a future of lifestyle changes and rising tide.  Heading back north toward Chestertown for Downrigging Weekend, we made stops in Bivalve (on the Nanticoke), Slaughter Creek Marina (on Taylors Island off the Little Choptank), and St. Michaels (for creamed chipped beef on toast for breakfast at the Carpenter Street Saloon).

Downrigging Weekend is a highlight of our Fall cruising - tall ships, bluegrass, eclectic company, and good food and drink - what could be better?  The Chestertown Marina books quickly (months in advance) and so the majority of those visiting by boat anchor out in the Chester River and dinghy to shore.  Halloween arrived a few days later and found us anchored in Dividing Creek, where we went ashore to walk on Wye Island.  Back in Bivalve, I'd bought a pumpkin at a roadside stand, intent on having a proper Jack-O-Lantern aboard GRACE.  Speaking of Grace, from Dividing Creek, we motored around/through Tilghman Island (via Knapps Narrows) to Grace Creek in order to buy oysters from P.T. Hambleton Seafood.  I'd be hard-pressed to find fresher ones - we watched these being dredged and tonged on the way in.  Later, in San Domingo Creek, we came upon acquaintances Jay and Tanya aboard the Valiant MINX and shared our bounty.

We wrapped up our tour of the Bay with a sail over to the Smithsonian Environmental Research Center on the Rhode River and a stop in Harness Creek for walking in Quiet Waters Park.  Two days later, we pulled into Bay Boat Works - the end of our sailing adventures for 2023.

Friday, September 22, 2023 to Sunday, October 8, 2023
Number of days:
13 days
  • At Bay Boat Works, Low Tide
  • Playing REGATTA during tropical storm Ophelia
  • Annapolis Harbor in mist
  • HdGYC Invitational - GRACE in upper right of photo
  • We'll NEVER leave the bosun's chair at home again!
  • Jolly Dolphin
  • GCBSR Parade of Sail
  • The start of the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race
  • GCBSR - Light wind prevails
  • As darkness descends, keeping track of the "big boats"
  • Calvert Marine Museum
  • RC Skipjack Fleet at Calvert Marine Museum

We started our fall cruise with tropical storm "Ophelia" moving up the coast from Georgia.  Our location - the North East River - was north of the storm surge; rain and wind gusts to 45 were the main concerns.  We passed a delightful day listening to rain drumming on deck, eating comfort food (black bean soup and corn muffins, homemade stromboli), playing a board game, and catching up with friends digitally.  By dawn, the wind gusts were few and far between and the water was back.  We sailed to Still Pond, beating the whole way there.  The Bay is still warm enough (70-degrees) for a quick swim to refresh.  The next day saw us to Annapolis, where the harbor was wearing the monochrome weather so well - a different kind of beautiful.

The Havre de Grace YC Invitational Race drew us back up the Bay - Cornfield Creek off the Magothy to Worton Creek to Tidewater Marina in Havre de Grace - beating, beating, beating.  We arrived exhausted and sore, eager to sip, sup, shower, and sleep.  The day of the Invitational started out with wind - enough that we were able to sail from Fishing Battery Island down to the start line 1 mile south of RG"A".  And enough to provide for an intense start of close-quarters maneuvering.  Even enough to give us a fine reach down to "the red you can't get to" (it seems the wind blows from there most times) and over to Grove Point.  We had a favorable close-haul up into the Elk River, but when we turned toward the finish line at RG"A", the ebb was brutal.  The breeze started to fade.  No!!!!!!  We worked so hard to keep GRACE pointing and lose as little as possible, but the writing was on the wall.  If you've raced on the Chesapeake, you've been there.  On that first approach, we were a gentle stone's throw from the finish line.  Subsequent tacks moved us increasingly farther away, and we called the race committee to announce we were retiring.  Ah well - time to go drink a beer, eat good food, and talk sailing.  As we motored back to Tidewater, we took a wayward Lightning in tow.  An ambitious father and two older teenage sons had undertaken to sail to Betterton and back (a lofty goal on a good day), and the breeze had abandoned them just like it had left us.

Our next engagement was the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race.  We learned last year that a fleet exists for Non-Schooner vessels; this year we made sure to be a part of it.  We arrived at The Anchorage Marina on October 3rd, in time for "Open Boat" public visiting hours.  However, we'd noticed in a pre-dawn departure from Bodkin Creek that our steaming light was out.  It figures - we left the bosun's chair at home.  Adding to our embarassment, we had spare mini Buddhist prayer flags but no light bulbs.  Dobbs rigged up an adequate climbing harness that got the job done, with the help of light bulbs from the local West Marine - a 2-pack, so now we have a spare ;-).  Jack Zuraw, captain of the three-sail bateau JOLLY DOLPHIN, invited us to join him and his crew for a sail.  For most of the morning, we motored around the harbor with the foresail up.  Our guests took turns at the wheel, learning the feel of steering.  About an hour before it was time to head in, the wind filled in enough that we could hoist the other two sails, turn off the engine, and sail.  There's nothing like the quiet pull of wind in the sails and a gurgling bow wave.  In the afternoon, GRACE participated in the Parade of Sail, and then everyone reconvened on the docks at 7pm for a hearty BBQ dinner party.  The following morning, the race began in painfully light wind.  It's breath-taking to watch tall ships like PRIDE OF BALTIMORE II, VIRGINIA, and DENIS SULLIVAN maneuvering, and we felt for NELLIE CROCKETT - the committee boat and one end of the start line, anchored amidst the "dancing elephants".  Thanks to Dobbs' excellent sense of maneuvering and timing, GRACE had a solid start and we began to pull away from many of the "N" class yachts right away.  BENNU led the charge, and she would for the entire race, out-pointing us all.  TIPSY was our closest competition and we never could shake her - we finished just on her heels, minutes if not seconds apart.  It was a grueling race - very light wind from the SSE (so beating into chop with little power in the sails) and half the time against the flood.  We sailed GRACE very well and finished at Cove Point at 04:23:30.  Our focus paid off - when times were corrected for boat handicaps, we came out in 1st (in the "Non-Schooner" Fleet)!  Two treats during the night:  trading tacks with VIRGINIA and PRIDE OF BALTIMORE II and seeing their sail plans silhouetted against the lights on shore, and moonrise - a slice of tangerine rising from the dark horizon, glower ever brighter before disappearing into the low cloud cover.  Safe Harbor Zahnizer's treated us to free dockage, allowing Dobbs and me time to visit the Calvert Marine Museum.      

Saturday, September 16, 2023
Number of days:
1 day
  • Our 31' Columbia GRACE's first 1st

Sunny, upper 70's/low 80's, N10-15>5-10

Start off NERYC>D>E>B>A (x2)

We won!

Dobbs and I worked really hard to stay on top of every veer and back and keep our sails well-trimmed.  A C&C 25 and Dane with his Tartan were close enough on our tail to keep us focused.  At least 7 boats raced.

Saturday, September 9, 2023
Number of days:
1 day

11am and not a breath of air...yet.  We waited, drifting, off Shelter Cove until a little breeze filled in, then enjoyed it for a few hours, following the North East River Yacht Club traditional race course like a camp horse unable to consider going any other way.  Even managed a spinnaker run - with the dinghy on the foredeck.  A thunderstorm passing to the west provided a little boost to see us back to our slip. 

Thursday, June 15, 2023 to Sunday, August 27, 2023
Number of days:
53 days
  • C&D Canal pre-dawn
  • Lobstah in Cuttyhunk
  • Isles of Shoals

A few shakedown days on the Chesapeake Bay and then a summer cruise to New England.  Log entries are on my blog, Living with Grace.  I count the days we're actively using our boats (either Grace or Agility, the dinghy) and not the ones where we're simply living aboard.

Tuesday, February 14, 2023
Number of days:
1 day
  • Happy to be on the water in February
  • Great Blue Heron nesting colony (I think) at the entrance to Duffy Creek
  • My sweetheart enjoying lunch
  • NELLIE CROCKETT
  • Tulips forced by Chesapeake Gold Farms

What better way to spend Valentine's Day than kayaking with my sweetheart?  We explored the Sassafras River above the Route 213 bridge at Fredericktown/Georgetown.  Highlights included seeing the buy boat NELLIE CROCKETT up close, sharing a floating lunch in a wetland off Duffy Creek, and spying a small nesting colony of great blue herons.  Deep Blue at Kitty Knight wowed us with their dinner presentation.  Earlier in the day, Dobbs drove me to Chesapeake Gold Farms for a bouquet of LOCAL flowers - that's right! - local flowers in February.  Owner Amanda forced tulips so they'd be at peak for this special day. 

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